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Mounting a tub isn't exactly brain surgery, however it does call for solid plumbing, woodworking, and often, tiling abilities. Replacing an old tub with a brand-new one is likewise a reasonably difficult job. If the old bathtub is readily easily accessible, the task can relocate rapidly; if you need to open up a wall to eliminate the old bathtub and position the brand-new bathtub, the task is much harder. In either case, the job is within a house handyman's abilities, although you will certainly require an assistant to vacate the old bathtub and also set in the brand-new one. See to it you have actually certified on your own for the work and are comfortable attempting it. Rather than hiring a professional to take over a halfway-completed job, it is much better to think about utilizing one before you begin. Possibilities are you may need a professional plumber to make tube connections.
This article will help you install a new bath tub in your washroom if you have actually currently gotten a brand-new bathtub as well as don't need to change the setup of your previous water pipelines.
Your devices as well as material checklist should comprise the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you need to change old faucets with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you need to do is separate the water system. After doing so, turn on the faucets to drain pipes any type of water remaining in the system. The process of getting rid of the existing taps can be quite bothersome as a result of the restricted access that is often the instance.
Utilize a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a faucet tool to undo the nut that attaches the supply pipes to the taps. Have a towel prepared for the remaining water that will certainly come from the pipelines. Once the supply pipelines have been eliminated, use the exact same device to loosen the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will require to stop the solitary faucets from turning throughout this process. When the taps have been gotten rid of, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleaned of any kind of old sealing substance.
Prior to moving on to fit the new faucets, compare the pipe links on the old taps to the new faucets. If the old taps are longer than the new faucets, after that a shank adapter is required for the brand-new faucets to fit.
Fitting New Touches
If the tails of the brand-new taps are plastic, after that you will certainly need a plastic port to stop damage to the thread. One end of the adapter fits on the plastic tail of the faucet and the other end gives a connection to the existing supply pipelines.
If you require to fit a monobloc, then you will need lowering couplers, which connects the 10mm pipeline of the monobloc to the basic 15mm supply pipe.
Next off, place the tap in the mounting hole in the bath/basin making sure that the washing machines are in place between the faucet as well as the sink. Protect the faucet in position with the manufacturer offered backnut. When the faucet is firmly in position, the supply pipelines can be connected to the tails of the taps. The taps can either be linked by utilizing corrugated copper piping or with typical faucet adapters. The previous kind should be connected to the tap ends first, tightening only by hand. The supply pipelines can later be connected to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been attached.
Setting up the Tub
Utilizing the two wooden boards under its feet, position the bath tub in the called for setting. The wooden boards are useful in evenly spreading the weight of the bath tub over the location of the boards rather than focusing all the weight onto four tiny factors.
The following goal is to ensure that the bath tub is leveled all round. This can be attained by inspecting the spirit level and readjusting the feet on the bath tub up until the spirit level reviews degree.
To set up taps, fit all-time low of the outermost flexible faucet adapter to the suitable supply pipe by making a compression sign up with; after that do the same for the various other faucet.
Switch on the water supply and also inspect all joints and brand-new pipework for leaks and tighten them if needed. Fill up the bathtub as well as also examine the overflow electrical outlet and the regular outlet for leaks.
Lastly, repair the bathroom paneling as explained in the manufacturer's user's manual. Tiling and securing around the tub should wait up until the bathtub has actually been used at the very least once as this will certainly settle it right into its final placement.
Preparing for the Setup
Firstly, the sustaining frame supplied with the bath must be fitted (if required) according to the maker's instructions. Next off, fit the faucets or mixer to the tub. When suitable the tap block, it is necessary to ensure that if the faucet comes with a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bath and also the taps. On a plastic bath, it is additionally sensible to fit a sustaining plate under the taps system to stop strain on the tub.
Fit the adaptable tap ports to the bottom of both taps utilizing 2 nuts and also olives (in some cases provided with the bathtub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet opening, and then pass the outlet with the hole in the bathroom. Use the nut supplied by the maker to fit the plug-hole. Check out the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.
Next off, fit completion of the flexible overflow pipe to the overflow electrical outlet. Afterwards, screw the pipe to the overflow face which ought to be fitted inside the bathroom. See to it you use all of the supplied washing machines.
Attach the catch to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and also screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect the bottom of the overflow tube in a comparable manner.The bathroom need to currently be ready to be fitted in its final setting.
Tiling Around the Tub
In the area where the bathroom fulfills the tile, it is essential to secure the accompanies a silicone rubber caulking. This is important as the installation can move enough to crack a rigid seal, triggering the water to permeate the wall in between the bathroom as well as the tiling, resulting in problems with dampness and feasible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can select from a range of coloured sealants to blend in your components as well as fittings. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and also can securing spaces up to a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a bigger space to fill, you can load it with spins of soaked newspaper or soft rope. Remember to constantly fill up the bathtub with water prior to securing, to enable the movement experienced when the bathtub remains in use. The sealer can fracture relatively early if you do not think about this activity before sealing.
Conversely, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be used to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and reduce to size, are also conveniently offered on the market. It is a good idea to fit the ceramic tiles using waterproof or waterproof glue as well as grout.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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